Giant Rust Holes in Forester Wheel Wells

I had a party at my house and amongst the dozen people attending there was three foresters in my driveway.  It was pretty cool and a little spooky all at the same time, I guess great minds think alike.  While I was on the porch talking about this with a friend, he pointed out that Foresters of this age are prone to having rust issues in the rear wheel wells.  I attribute this to a design flaw that allows snow, ice and salt to get packed into the upper portion of the wheel well next to the shock tower and rust out the metal up there.  In my car this was a large hole on both sides of the car.  He told me that I would need to fix it ASAP or my rear panels will rust out quickly and cause extensive body damage.  He told me that he knew how to do this and that while it was tricky and messy, it wasn't hard and would save me hundreds of bucks in future body work.  So in early December with a bunch of material prepared I went over to borrow my friends garage to learn how to repair these rust holes.  I had done some body work in the past, but nothing quite like this, so I listened and watched carefully.  In total it took about 8hrs to do this and took place on two different days.

If you follow the shock tower up to the top and feel towards the outside of the car's wheel well that's where the holes form

Here's what I need to do the job for parts and tools.
Hydrolic Car Jack and 2 jack stands
19mm wrench to remove lug nuts from tires
Impact Driver for screws,
Air Powered Dremmel tool for wire brushes
Air Sprayer to clean the area
10 mm socket to remove the gas filler tube cover
Sheet metal sheers and pliers for cutting and bending
Ball pin hammer for refining bends and shaping
Marker and cardboards for making patterns
Safety glasses to protect and keep dirt out my eyes
Fast Drying Primer Paint
12" x 24" piece of automotive sheet metal
two tubes of automotive seam sealer
Two cans of rock guard

Here' essentially what I had to do.  Jack the car, remove the tire, clean, grind and prepare the area around the hole.  Create a cardboard template of the hole and figure how to bend it to fit and leave room for screws and fastening.  Cut out and bend the pattern using thick sheet metal spend a lot of time making it fit perfectly. Then coat the whole area with tar and seam sealer and screw the plate cover over the hole. Finally spray rock guard over the whole area to rubberize and waterproof everything so this doesn't happen all over again.  The first side took me three and half hours with help to complete.  The second side took longer because I had to deal with the filler tube and another rusted out section around the top of the filler neck.  It was time consuming but worth every minute because there is no longer water getting into the rear panels of my car.

Here's a video that I made of the whole process.